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Glossary

Aglets
Are found at the end of shoelaces. They are used to stop the ends from fraying and are usually made from plastic.

Aniline leather
Involves using the best hides which have few imperfections. These are worked to produce a natural classic finish.

Brogue
Shoes that have holes punched on them to enhance the design and style. Depending on the amount of puching the Brogue 'family' splits into full, semi, quarter, longwing and ghillie brogues.

Calf Leather
Young hide and therefore less marked and lighter which is soft and pliable. Excellent for shoes and gloves- takes a high polish.

Cemented construction
Manufacturing process that bonds the upper and sole giving the shoe more flexibility and lightness

Derby or Gibson style
In the U.S. sometimes called a Blucher - the entry or exit of the foot is easier as the shoe flaps/facings(lace area) can be opened up. Simply the tongue is part of the vamp and lies beneath the lace area.

Espadrille
Primarily this style has a sole or wedge unit with rope or jute effect wrapped around it. The uppers could be canvas but not essential.

Full Grain Leather
This leather has only had the hair removed. Everything is done to maintain the natural beauty and texture of the hide. Usually

Goodyear Welted
Manufacturing method used for classic, traditional footwear. By using a welt the sole is not directly attached to the upper. Giving an advantage of repair, shape retention, comfort thru' bottom filler and a degree of water resistance.

Gelactiv
Primarily used by Scholl as under foot shock absorption

Insole
The inside sole of shoe lying directly beneath the foot.

Kid Leather
Is a lightweight and fine grained goat skin.

Kitten heel
Were popularised in the 50's. It is a short curved heel no more than usually 2 inches in height

Leather
Is a natural product that comes from the skin of various animals after it has been tanned and processed. Leather has many advantages in wear and style.

Loafer
Refers to non lace slip-on style of shoe. Generally they are low and broad heeled.

Mary Jane
Style of ladies shoe that has bar across the middle to hold the foot

Moccasin
This style is said to emanate from the North American Indians. Imagine your foot is wrapped in leather and a vamp is sewn on to 'seal' this upper. The next stage is to stitch or glue a sole to this formed upper. The foot is then fully enclosed in a comfortable leather wrap that is easy and light on the foot.

Monk
On this styling the lace disappears and is replaced by leather strap and buckle attachment. Various designs and treatments are sometimes applied to strap and buckle.

Mule
Simply a closed toe backless shoe

Nappa Leather
Is full grain leather from kid, lamb or sheep. It is very soft and supple and used in the luxury and comfort end of the market.

Nubuck Leather
Is created by sanding or buffing the grain side of the leather. It produces a small smooth nap of soft fibres.

Oxford -
This very classic English business style is sometimes known in the U S as a Balmoral. Essentially the lace flaps(facings) are sewn to the base of the tongue giving a more restricted foot entry and refined look.

Patent Leather
High gloss shiny finished leather. Evening wear and looking snazzy.

P.U.
Soling material in polyurethane known for its hard wearing, lightweight and comfort qualities.

Saddle -
Term used for decorative trims across the instep/top of shoe. Widely used on men's and ladies moccasins.

Shank
This hidden part of the shoe sits centrally under the arch of the foot and heel. It acts as bridge between the heel and the sole providing strength and shape.

Suede Leather
Is created by sanding or buffing the underside of the skin. This creates a textured nap of fibres.

Tanned
In order to convert animal hides into leather they all have to go through a tanning process.

Veldtschoen
Heavy duty welted shoe. Originally from South Africa and known there as 'field shoe'

Vamp
Front part of the shoe's upper.

Zug Grain
Waterproof grain leather used primarily in the making of veldtschoens.